coordination, and at one time, just being flat out chemically altered
if you know what I mean? Still crazy after all these years! Hey isn't
that the title of a song or somethin' by Paul Simon?
Got an appointment to see the shrink today - pshaw...!
Peace
--- In acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Lange"
<trlange@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Ah yes, I know exactly what you're talking about. That first ding
on a new guitar is *painful*. After that it's like, damn, there's
another one. But, being blind, I'm always knocking about and bumping
into things onstage and elsewhere, so it goes with the territory.
Most of my guitars were used when I got them, so the way I see it,
another ding just adds character. Have to accept these things
philosophically, don't ya know. <grin>
> CHEERS!
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: qwackyjack
> To: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 5:11 PM
> Subject: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
>
>
> Isn't it strange how emotional we get once we first ding our new
> guitar? It goes right to the bone, my breath is almost taken away. I
> gotta call my therapist [lol]!
>
> --- In acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wilson
> <rydog1881@> wrote:
> >
> > iv heard of the heat element to push a sound board back after
> loosing some of the supports, had a guitar near a wood stove when i
> was a kid and the whole guitar loosened up and redried with waves all
> throughout the sound board and neck joint had to be pushed back down,
> i believe the scratches add character, and sometimes when i get a new
> guitar will blem it unpurpose in a special spot, to i.d. and to break
> the curse of the new perfect guitar, which will sound better in 20
> yrs, i think i posted some pics of the guitars i built somewhere, not
> perfect but they sound sweet..
> > ryan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: mrjimbo <mrjimbo@>
> > To: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 4, 2009 2:50:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
> >
> >
> > Hi Ryan,
> > Finger nail polish may seem to work for you but I think it's not the
> best choice.. It is a totally different material that the
> nitrocellulous lacquer typically used on a guitar.. The agent in nail
> pollish is typically a naptha or acetone based material which when in
> contact with the lacquer may cause a soft spot..... that is a
> softening of a portion of the lacquer that will stay that way..
> Nitrocellulous is actually a pretty awsome material. That's why it's
> used on musical instruments. . It does indeed stand the test of time
> and is redo-able for the most part by someone that knows what their
> doing.. Did you know that you can take a good heat gun to the sound
> board of a guitar and slowly heat it up and literally peel the lacquer
> off it with minimal effect to what's under it.. Again one needs to
> know what ones doing so please don't anyone run out and grab their
> Martin or Collings etc and go for it...:-))
> >
> > jimbo
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ryan Wilson
> > To: acousticguitaristgu ild@yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 12:02 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
> >
> > i have had good luck with small area sctatches using my wifes clear
> fingernail polish, the brush was remarkably usefull..
> > , i lightly fill the scratch to level then lightly blend the
> surface...ryan
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: Lee McGee <lee.mcgee@usa. net>
> > To: acousticguitaristgu ild@yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 4, 2009 10:55:38 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
> >
> > Thanks jimbo.
> >
> > That's the idea behind the drop of lacquer I described, it fills any
> deep scratch or even small dings.
> >
> > If the finish is gone, you re-finish. Spray, let it set up 24 hours,
> then buff it out. This is actually within reach of an amateur, is not
> rocket science.
> >
> > Again, knowing whether you are dealing with lacquer or
> poly-composite is the key.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mrjimbo
> > To: acousticguitaristgu ild@yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:47 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
> >
> > Lee,
> > If the finish is gone well not nmuch of a place to go.. Their is a
> product that is used specifically on optical acrylics to fill small to
> medieum scratches.. It by Novus.. We do drummm scanning here of film
> and learned of it that way.. It is basically a specially formulated
> polish that actually puts a fill layer in th escratch...No it's not
> permanent.. I would class it sort of like nuclear wax or polish.. just
> kidding.. Anyway it works great on musical instruments. . THey have
> seversal types.. also some with grit so that you can remove a small
> scratch.. I would not reccomend using it however.. The scratch doesn't
> hurt th esound only your visual of teh guitar..
> >
> > jimbo
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Lee McGee
> > To: acousticguitaristgu ild@yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:18 AM
> > Subject: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Re: guitar care
> >
> > If the scratch is deep, or the finish is gone, I am afraid that you
> are going to have to
> > use an abrasive agent, and more.
> >
> > And you are going to need to know whether your guitar has a lacquer
> finish (as older
> > instruments do, thinking of Andrew's Martin!), or a modern poly
> finish. You can get
> > either the lacquer or poly finish materials from any good
> woodworking shop.
> >
> > Stewart McDonald (www.stewmac. com) also sells musical instrument
> lacquer for those
> > with lacquer finishes.
> >
> > OK roll up your sleeves. I am going to assume lacquer finish here.
> >
> > 1. Hit the spot with 1000-grit wet or dry sandpaper (wet!). You only
> need to use
> > a light fingertip pressure. If the spot or damage is very deep, you
> might need to use
> > 600-grit then 800-grit sandpaper first.
> > 2. Put a drop of instrument lacquer on the spot. Let it dry 24
> hours, it needs to set.
> > 3. 1000-grit wet sandpaper again.
> > 4. slightly abrasive rubbing compound (very soft cloth)
> > 5. antique furniture finish (very soft cloth)
> >
> > Damage fixed!
> >
> > If a modern poly finish instrument, substitute a poly varnish for
> the lacquer.
> >
> > You can refinish large areas of an instrument by thinning your
> lacquer or poly with thinner,
> > then spraying it.
> >
> > Stewmac also sells small bottles of color dye to exactly dye your
> lacquer or poly to match
> > the guitar finish, such as matching the antique amber patina that
> guitar tops get as they age,
> > or matching rosewood, mahagony.
> >
> > Lee McGee
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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